What To Do: Hiking Morris Island
Christian Herald loves living in Greenwich Village, but he also loves Cape Cod. An avid hiker, he was eager to explore Chatham’s Morris Island. We checked Stage Harbor’s low tide which approximates Morris’s.
Arriving at this 40-acre segment of the Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge, we plucked a pamphlet from the kiosk at the start of this three-quarter-mile trail, then headed into our uncharted wilderness. Almost immediately we reached an overlook where we paused to admire the stunning panorama of South Beach and North and South Monomoy Islands.
Our stroll was easy at first, with intermittent signs and benches. Near arrowwood and sassafras, we studied data about roseate terns and piping plovers on one of a dozen helpful station markers. We climbed stairs to the beach, appreciating the viewing platforms from which we peeked up at the handsome houses secreted on the hill, then wended our way from beach grass into scrub pine.
Songbirds darted from the shade as we paused in a sandy glade. After we’d read about white-tailed deer, there were only our soft footfalls as we moved past red oak, blueberry, and juniper. The leaflet told us how to recognize these in autumn.
Marker # No. 8 told us a bit about black ducks. This area is a habitat for hundreds of shorebird species which the nutritious salt marsh attracts. Fall is a wonderful time here to witness migrating sea ducks, loons, and terns. September brings teal, gadwall, and the American widgeon. Eider, oldsquaw, and scoter number in the hundreds during October and early November.
We followed fresh fox tracks along the damp sand, Christian pleased to see evidence of other mammals. Here through October the sea lavender and sea rocket will bloom. Autumn also brings butterflies, dragonflies, and damselflies. One can also glimpse migrating birds of prey such as great horned owls and peregrine falcons.
At this point we could have doubled back to the start, but we continued to the tip, in parts our path just single file. At the rounded end, we could see across the flats to North Monomoy Island Lighthouse and the keeper’s quarters. We stayed for a while, quiet, wind and sun at our backs.
During a hearty post-hike lunch at the Chatham Squire, Christian summarized the highlights. “The tight curves emphasized the shoreline’s beauty. The narrow path was filled with surprises when it opened to adventurous turns. I loved the intimacy of the glade. That exquisite piping plover with stilty legs and fabulous wings! The yin and yang of tide on sand…”
Sopping up our steamed mussels’ broth with a chunk of bread, we gathered some recommendations for would-be Morris Island walkers: if you bring a pet, keep it on a short leash; as it’s often breezy by the sea, dress in layers; wear sunscreen; bring a camera and binoculars; carry water and perhaps a snack or picnic; dawn and dusk afford the best wildlife sighting opportunities; the refuge lot has limited parking, so consider arriving at non-prime times.
The refuge provides an informative staff as well as terrific exhibits, a bookstore, and displays. Although it’s generally open Monday through Friday from 8 a.m. until 4 p.m., check by calling 508-945-0594. The trail is open sunrise to sunset, although it’s accessible all day to surf fishing.
“To speak of wilderness is to speak of wholeness,” said Beat poet Gary Snyder. Christian said the walk would stay with him in New York. The yin and the yang of tide on sand renewed us before we went on our way.
